The Rock Climber s Training Manual a Guide to Continuous Improvement
See a Problem?
Thanks for telling us about the problem.
Friend Reviews
Reader Q&A
Be the first to ask a question about The Rock Climber's Training Manual | A Guide to Continuous Improvement
Community Reviews
Cons: This book is incredibly sexist. Not only does it completely ignore the female body and experience, it exclusively uses the male pronoun throughout the text. I can't even remember the last time I saw that...the 90s? (this was published in 2015). You also get great bonus quotes fr
Pros: Really comprehensive guide that covers fitness and strength, diet and nutrition, injuries, performance, etc. It can be adapted for any level. Extra online resources here: https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.comCons: This book is incredibly sexist. Not only does it completely ignore the female body and experience, it exclusively uses the male pronoun throughout the text. I can't even remember the last time I saw that...the 90s? (this was published in 2015). You also get great bonus quotes from famous climbers, like this gem:
"As a teenager I spent my evenings training in grungy garages and basements with older smelly men...and the occasional misplaced cute girl (who never stuck around that long)..." -Tommy Caldwell
Can't imagine why this sport is so male dominated. We must just not have your perseverance and mental fortitude.
...more
i'm sure many reading are familiar with how many hours climbing training can drain away with seemingly little (if any) measurable progress. at the very least, this book teaches you to be extremely efficient with your training (after all, the authors have to be given their schedules!)
but following the plan exactly
a very good training book to read. authors lead busy lives with a lot of professional and family (non-climbing) responsibilities, yet redpoint 5.14d (9a) and onsight 5.13s on their tripsi'm sure many reading are familiar with how many hours climbing training can drain away with seemingly little (if any) measurable progress. at the very least, this book teaches you to be extremely efficient with your training (after all, the authors have to be given their schedules!)
but following the plan exactly might be overkill (it certainly was for me -- especially campusing). some unsolicited advice to avoid making my mistakes after reading this (disclaimer: these are pretty anecdotally-formed opinions -- I can't back the below with objective "send" data from a performance phase because I haven't actually followed the entire cycle. in fact i'm still a huge newbie with minimal mileage outdoor climbing in general):
if you're rather quantitatively-minded (as I am), be careful expecting this book to be "the answer" and to make "mad gainz" just following their plan (as I imagined). it probably isn't, and i learnt that the hard way -- there was a brief period i forgot fundamental truths ("position over everything", "climbing is a skill sport"). i gradually realized i was better off sticking with the "beginner" versions of the routines, as they involved more climbing
nonetheless, book is packed with gems of knowledge and carefully following their advice / selecting exercises definitely yielded "gainz" for me.
...more
Has lots of foundational knowledge on why and how to train.
This book is DENSE. There is good stuff in here, but good luck finding it. You know how some people use a small font, tight spacing, and tiny margins to fit as many words as possible on their resume? That's what this book is like. There are pictures, and there are anecdotal insets, but they're almost sort of arbitr
I read an article recently, I think it was in Climbing magazine, that joked about this book being a part of every climber's training routine. Not reading it, but ordering it on Amazon.This book is DENSE. There is good stuff in here, but good luck finding it. You know how some people use a small font, tight spacing, and tiny margins to fit as many words as possible on their resume? That's what this book is like. There are pictures, and there are anecdotal insets, but they're almost sort of arbitrarily placed. This book, for all of it's information, still leaves it to you to figure out what to do, when, and how much. I understand every climber is different, and people are going to come to this book with a variety of experience and abilities, but... I really wanted them to prescribe a plan of what to do. With this amount of pages, there's no reason you couldn't include a sample training plan for a month for a 5.9 climber, a 5.10 climber, etc. Or maybe a beginner's sample plan, and an intermediate sample plan, and leave the reader to draw their own path between the two. They do come close to doing that in a couple of places, but the charts are small and full of abbreviations I would need to decipher.
Living about 75 minutes each way from the climbing gym as I do, I was really hoping this book would include more exercises I could do at home or at the regular gym. There is some of that, but not more than what I could have found in a single article or two online or in a magazine.
All this said, I'm sure I'll use this book in the future as a resource. I learned more about hangboards here than I have anywhere else, and I'm more convinced I need to buy one. But I'm back to the internet, looking for a training manual that doesn't expect me to do all the planning work, because ain't nobody got time for that. Besides, this book makes that seem really complicated and daunting.
For now, this book is going to collect some dust on my bookshelf. So touché, Climbing magazine. At least I cracked the spine a handful of times. *wink*
...more The Anderson's book is at the other en
Several years ago I read Extreme Alpinism and from then on my climbing training pretty much revolved around Twight's famous line: "The goal of training for alpine climbing can be summed up in one phrase: to make yourself as indestructible as possible. The harder you are to kill the longer you will last in the mountains." That quote has stuck with me and served me well as a training mantra for a diverse list of activities where the primary goal is to not die.The Anderson's book is at the other end of the spectrum. It is almost solely devoted to hard, single-pitch sport climbing and contains a fair bit of advice that would probably be counterproductive in the big mountains (something tells me that Mark Twight didn't switch to a salad diet in order to lose a few pounds in advance of his 60 hour push on the Slovak Direct).
The authors are very upfront about the book's specificity and don't try to imply the Rock Prodigy methodology is appropriate for all climbing goals. The training methodology is probably best suited for the weekend warrior who really wants to progress through number grades and has regular access to an excellent climbing gym. Fortunately the authors include advice about modifying the program for big wall climbing or for people without access to a gym which makes the book useful for someone like me as well.
Overall an important contribution to the genre and a book I intend to be referring to again and again....even if I don't go on their salad diet.
...more
My first (mostly) full training cycle has yielded uncertain results - I haven't made any spectacular progress, yet I can identify many little things that I can do now that I couldn't before, moves I might not have even attempted last year that I regularly attempt and sometimes do now. More than anything, though, what I have gained so far is a far better understanding of how to train and practice, from scheduling, to managing my time and energy within a training session. I expect that I'll continue to refer to this book for a long time.
...more
The book is mostly focused on training but also has advice on planning your outdoor trip to maximize your chance of sending your project.
I have no doubt that if I followed the advice in this book I'd be a stronger climber.
Really solid book on physical training for all types of climbing. Provides specific advice about what to do, when to do it, and how to keep track. It is definitely advice to the climber who wants to put in hard work and be committed to improving.The book is mostly focused on training but also has advice on planning your outdoor trip to maximize your chance of sending your project.
I have no doubt that if I followed the advice in this book I'd be a stronger climber.
...more
I used the hangboarding training plan to push my climbing to new levels last year. Reading through the entire thing and setting up a training plan again this winter has me confident I'll push beyond those levels in the coming years.
Want to take your climbing game to the next level? This is the book. Science, psychology and a training plan to put it all together! A necessity for any climber looking for a proven system to boost their performance.I used the hangboarding training plan to push my climbing to new levels last year. Reading through the entire thing and setting up a training plan again this winter has me confident I'll push beyond those levels in the coming years.
...more 
This book is put together really well. I've read it front to back and really enjoyed learning about the ideas and science for each phase.
I'm currently working through my first training season following the Rock Climber's Training Manual. If I don't climb 5.12+ in April then I'm changing the rating to one star.This book is put together really well. I've read it front to back and really enjoyed learning about the ideas and science for each phase.
...more
News & Interviews
Welcome back. Just a moment while we sign you in to your Goodreads account.
Source: https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/22392738-the-rock-climber-s-training-manual-a-guide-to-continuous-improvement
0 Response to "The Rock Climber s Training Manual a Guide to Continuous Improvement"
Post a Comment